Giraffing

It's hard to believe, but my service in Burkina is ending next week!  A lot has been going on here and I can't begin to explain the last month.  It's been crazy and stressful and the best way to deal with stuff that's stressful is to visit giraffes!

The last remaining self sustaining herd of West African giraffes (also know as the Niger or Nigerien giraffe, scientific name: giraffa camelopardalis peralta) is located in south western Niger. This subspecies is currently classified as endangered, but the population is on the rise because of conservation efforts.  Another article here.

(heads up: Niger and Nigeria are different countries; Nigeria is directly south of Niger)

View Niger in a larger map  (supposedly the blue pin is Niamey and the green Kouré, but from the view on my computer they're off)


Last Wednesday two friends and myself set out for Niamey.  The bus ride was uneventful, but hot ... really hot.  We arrived at the Sonef bus station in Ouaga at 4:30 am for our 5 am departure. The bus initially looked very nice since it was the air-conditioned model where the windows don't open because it's air-conditioned.  Unfortunately, later that morning when it started getting hot we discovered the air-conditioning, and the air fans in general, didn't work.  The only ventilation was two roof vents in the front half of the bus... we were sitting in the back.  Hottest bus ride ever.

We arrived in Niamey with no problems, found the Peace Corps Niger office and settled in at their hostel.  Niamey observations:

1) there are more cars than motos (Ouaga is exactly opposite)

2) the women cover themselves more (made Burkina's ladies look like harlots in comparison)

3) the taxis function, are clean and there is no haggling over price

4) it seemed hotter, but I could be getting soft with my Ouaga living

5) there were hardly any street vendors; in general people were very respectful and it was a no hassle trip

6) (not Niamey) once we crossed the border into Niger the number of largish trees dwindle almost none

OK giraffes...  We hired a car to take us out to Kouré the next day.  At the giraffe "center" we paid something like a park entrance fee and pick up our guide.  Then we drove out to find the giraffes.  Our guide climbed a tree to spot them and then we headed off road.

and then ...

We ended up seeing 20 or so giraffes.  At first we came upon a group of 7 and then we followed them on foot as they joined up with a larger group.  They didn't seem concerned about our presence, although they appeared to be asking "what do you want?" a fair bit.  Only one spooked and started to run as we approached.  The coolest behavior was watching them rub necks.  It didn't look like they were fighting even though it was two males, so I'm guessing they were really good friends.

necking behavior

mom and baby

how thin can the neck appear?

I really like the picture above because it nicely demonstrates the giraffe's bizarre gait.  They start their movement by moving the front foot and then the back foot of the same side.  Which means that they are constantly shifting their weight from side-to-side as seen in this photo.

like cows, they were constantly chewing

With a little help from the giraffe, Jen was almost the same height... almost.

This one with the cockeyed horn is an older female.  For inexplicable reasons she was my favorite.

Photos generously provided by John Barbour (out of over 200 taken, these were the only usable ones).